We were fortunate. That last remaining batch of these manual gearboxes was imported into the US and pretty much sold out immediately. Could we have just gotten a used gearbox and ran with it until it, too, became mush? The first gear will be fairly short. The second is packing power, while the third is set up on the long side. The rest are usually long as well. Not only that, but all the gears were stacked close and overlapping.
This means that you could step on the gas, push the car into the red line and remain within the power band even if you up or downshift.
Oh, and the first gear was long, allowing you actually to use it besides getting the car to roll. The original box was cramped, to say the least. Engineers over at SAAB had to put five gears in there while still keeping the footprint of the gearbox relatively small. Although everything looked fairly good on paper, in reality, it resulted in weak, under-engineered gears.
First thing first, they ditched one gear, thus freeing up available space. Especially if that meant packing beefier gears. Dog gears, or straight cut gears, are loud.
Compared to the usual helical gears of your standard gearbox, they are the barbarians from the north. If you want a preview of what they sound like, just slam a manual car into reverse and step on the gas.
Reverse gear in manual vehicles is almost always a straight cut gear. However, the best thing about these gears is their simplicity. When you take away the noise and vibrations, you get a gearbox that is strong, simple, and can take the abuse of high-performance driving. Can you break a gear? This concludes the first part of the transmission rebuild. You must be logged in to post a comment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Working on cars is dangerous, always be careful and be aware of the hazards of working on any vehicle. You will need something to lift and move the engine — I typically borrow an engine hoist from a friend, but have also used the bucket of a tractor or a pulley system winched from a rafter beam.
Disconnect your battery before touching anything , if you remove it you will be left with a convenient temporary tool storage tray. Dispose of engine coolant in an environmentally safe fashion, which will vary depending on your location.
Be EXTRA careful when removing the small hose going to the expansion tank as the nipple on the radiator is plastic and brittle. If you break it you will need a new radiator. You now have access to the clutch, and are ready to use the very important clutch spacer tool. Get a friend to help here, as they will push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Remove the slave cylinder , clutch pressure plate, and friction disk instructions here. The clutch slave cylinder can hang to the side without having to decompress it, but be sure not to press the clutch pedal until it is reinstalled or it could blow out the seals.
If you do find yourself in need of new seals, eEuroparts offers a slave cylinder rebuild kit. Disconnect the AC compressor frame and prop it out of the way assuming you have one. Disconnecting the hoses is risky if you intend on maintaining air conditioning, since the threaded connections are soft. Label all the wiring connectors and vacuum lines, and take pictures of everything to make re-installation easy , and then disconnect all wiring connectors, grounds, throttle cable, and vacuum lines and move them out of the way.
Drain the rest of the coolant from the block using the 19mm fixture under the exhaust manifold , and the oil from engine and transmission.
If your transmission does not have a drain plug they disappeared somewhere around , just remove a lower bolt from the inner driver and open the differential cover. Removing the oil filler tube it threads out with a large wrench makes the process easier. If you break it which I have done on various occasions , eEuroparts sells replacements. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe. Be very careful with these as they are likely to strip or break the studs, turbo or non.
Make sure to soak them in a quality penetrating oil multiple times before attempting to remove. This will keep the suspension loaded and level as you jack it up, so you can remove a ball joint without it being under tension. The taper pin is the fastener that holds the linkage together, however if it is giving you trouble, you can try to remove the pinch bolt near the firewall instead. Under the car, disconnect the shift linkage shaft by punching out the taper pin and jerking the shifter back to disconnect the taper pin was very difficult — all sources said to loosen the nut and pound it with a hammer until it popped free, but after exhausting all other options, we bought an air hammer and punched it right out.
Option 2: Disconnect the pinch bolt instead of the taper pin, but make sure to de-grease both connections before re-attaching to prevent slipping. You will probably have to have someone move the shifter around in order to find a good position to get leverage on the bolt. Once disconnected, put the car into 3rd gear and the shaft assembly will be moved out of the way.
Disconnect the lower ball joint on both sides and pop off both CV boots from the transmission. Disconnect the fuel line from the front side of the fuel rail and from under the fuel pressure regulator. If your check valves are working, there will be pressure in the system, so its a good idea to have safety glasses on or else you may end up with gasoline in your eyes.
Ensure that driveshaft boots are intact and listen for clicking CV joints; look at bushes, for power steering leaks and corrosion around suspension mounts. Gearboxes can top k miles if used with respect, but can fail much sooner: check for jumping out of gear notably reverse , rattles and bearing noise.
Early seat covers pull apart from ribs and fade. Look for dropping headlining and dash cracks. Hide was a desirable option. Secondhand items can be found. It is wise, especially on non-intercooled cars, to let the engine tick over before shutting down.
Hydraulic tappets, on 16v models, may chatter on start-up from cold, but should soon quieten. Eight-valve tappets are shimmed, and fiddly to set up. If the engine rocks when revved, budget to replace the hydraulic engine mountings quickly before the gear selectors are damaged.
Cooling systems worked hard — battery acid could boil in hot climates due to turbo heat! APC engine management on 16v is costly to repair; it monitors and controls induction pressure, allowing 0.
Tuning is popular but more than bhp will shorten the life of the whole drivetrain. Gearbox problems mean a costly engine-out repair; new parts are scarce but specialists have used stocks. Brakes can seize especially the handbrake, which works on front discs up to and is a common MoT fail and corrode; check that they respond well. Production ends.
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